Animal
Testing
Fibreglassing Research
Through the process of fibreglass, I decided it would be useful to gain a bit of knowledge of how fibreglass works, and all the other methods used within the category. I always find Neill Gortons DVD's very interested and worth watching, and also Stan Winston's dvds never fail to disappoint me. I have watched the majority of his DVD' s on various methods, and found they have helped me a tremendous amount. Although the DVD's also have the advantage of playback if you need it repeated several times, theres only so much you can ask a person before they get fed up of repeating themselves.
Not knowing the process of fibreglass always worried me. I decided to have a look at some of the steps to help me along the way. Above is an image I found of the plaster mould from the alginate face cast, something I am already familiar with, after already doing it various times in the past.
Tinsil 8030 A and B, are both mixed together to make a silicone coat over the plaster mould like in the image to the left. There was also a clay wall around the mould to create key points and to keep the silicone in place.
Clay can also be used to raise the plaster off of a board to keep it all level, and to avoid any undercuts that may cause the mould to appear uneven and at a slant.
The image below, is the step I need to create in order to start making a fibreglass mould of my models face.
The image to the right, is the second silicone jacket, this is thickened using thixo. Keys are also added to the jacket so the fibreglass is easier to pull apart.
The image to the right, is a coat of shellac added to the plaster mould to prevent the silicone from sticking to it.
The clay is under the mould and around to raise the plaster mould off of the board to erase and undercuts , so it doesn't appear at a slant or uneven.
There is also a clay wall that is added around the mould, so silicone is freely able to run into it, creating key points.
